A new exhibition this fall at the Glyptotek museum in Copenhagen will examine the link between fashion, power and culture in ancient Rome. The Power of Fashion in the Roman Empire draws from the Glyptotek’s exceptional collection of antiquities combined with loans from other institutions, including pieces that have never been on loan before.
Based on the museum’s long-standing research on colour and ancient dress and fashion, the exhibition presents the latest findings on the clothing, perfumes, jewellery and hairstyles those in power used to signal their position in the social hierarchy.
Covering over 1,000 m2, The Power of Fashion in the Roman Empire is an exhibition that appeals to the senses. Custom-made scents, research-based colours, a scenography of textiles and audio narratives all contribute to an immersive experience and space for reflection on people’s obsession – then as now – with status, identity and appearance.
The Glyptotek has been breaking new ground in researching the clothing, colors, accessories and perfumes of ancient Rome, investigating sculptures for traces of original polychromy, allowing researchers to make links between how draping, garment styles and colors conveyed social position and power. For example, a portrait sculpture of the emperor Tiberius with his torso and legs bare, a garment draped around his waist and over his arm, was presenting him as a demi-god hero or deity, conveying even more strength than a military costume would have. Research into the garment’s original coloring discovered that it was pink, a color then associated with divinity and power.
The museum isn’t only relying on traces of color on sculptures, however. They have secured three exceedingly rare tunics from the British Museum that have never before left the confines of the museum. Another first-time loan is the leg of a monumental sculpture of Emperor Septimius Severus from the archaeological museum in Burdur, Turkey. The leg is wearing lionskin boots, symbol of regal power, and heroic attributes like Hercules wearing the skin of the Nemean Lion.
Perfumes get special attention, too, and just as with the colors, the scent palette in antiquity had very different meaning than it does today.
The Glyptotek has worked with the Danish skincare company Karmameju to create scents based on ancient perfume recipes. There are four scent stations providing insight into Roman perfumes and their relationship to gender roles and status. Men, for example, wore flower scents for special occasions, whereas women tended to use stronger, more pungent perfumes.
This landmark show will be the last major exhibition at the Glyptotek before it closes to embark on an ambitious restoration project to preserve its historic buildings while improving accessibility, repairing structural issues and damaged mosaic floors, and modernizing its technical systems of climate control and fire safety to ensure the optimal conservation conditions for its collection of classical sculpture, antiquities and 19th century French and Danish art. The Glyptotek of the Future project is funded in large part by a grant from the Carlsberg Foundation, a fitting callback to brewer and philanthropist Carl Jacobsen who founded the museum 130 years ago with the goal of making his private art and antiquities collection available to the public.
The restoration is scheduled to begin in 2028 and will take four to six years. More than 10,000 individual works from the museum’s collections will be removed and stored. The museum will be closed for part of that time, and the Glyptotek will be taking advantage of the downtime to exhibit some of its works elsewhere in Denmark and internationally. That will set them up nicely to get loans in exchange once the new facilities are up and running.








